Embark on a transformative journey into the artwork of quilting with our complete information on binding. Binding provides a sophisticated end to your masterpiece, defending the uncooked edges and showcasing your intricately stitched designs. It is a vital method that elevates the performance and aesthetic attraction of any quilt. Whether or not you are a seasoned quilter or simply starting your inventive odyssey, this step-by-step tutorial will information you thru the method with readability and finesse. So, collect your instruments and allow us to start our exploration into the world of quilt binding.
Earlier than embarking on the binding course of, it is essential to pick the right material that enhances your quilt’s design and colour palette. This selection will set the tone for the ultimate presentation, so take into consideration the general aesthetics and the specified completed look. Upon getting your material prepared, let’s dive into the fundamentals of binding. Beginning with a strip of material, we’ll connect it to the uncooked edges of your quilt utilizing a exact binding method. This method ensures a safe and professional-looking end that may stand up to years of use and admiration.
As we proceed our exploration, we’ll delve into extra superior binding methods, similar to mitered corners and double-fold binding. These methods add an additional contact of class and sturdiness to your quilt. We’ll discover the nuances of every methodology, offering step-by-step directions and useful suggestions to make sure success. By this journey, you will grasp the artwork of quilt binding, empowering you to create beautiful and long-lasting heirlooms that may grace your own home and function cherished household treasures.
Selecting the Proper Binding Cloth
Deciding on the suitable binding material is essential for attaining a charming and sturdy end in your quilt. This is an in depth information that will help you make an knowledgeable choice:
Cloth Alternative:
The selection of material for binding primarily relies on the quilt’s meant use and the material’s traits. Listed below are some common choices:
| Cloth Sort | Benefits | Disadvantages |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton | – Comfortable and breathable – Large number of colours and patterns – Sturdy and simple to work with |
– Might wrinkle simply |
| Flannel | – Comfortable and comfy – Provides heat to the quilt |
– Could be harder to work with because of its cumbersome nature |
| Minky | – Extremely-soft and plush – Provides an opulent really feel to the quilt |
– Could be susceptible to shedding – Is probably not appropriate for all quilt designs |
| Silk | – Luxurious and chic – Comfortable and drapes superbly |
– Costly – Might require particular care |
| Denim | – Sturdy and durable – Provides an informal and rustic contact |
– Could be stiff – Is probably not appropriate for all quilt designs |
Coloration and Sample:
The binding material’s colour and sample ought to complement the quilt’s total design. Take into account the next elements:
- Matching: Select a binding material that matches the quilt’s fundamental colour palette.
- Contrasting: Create visible curiosity by choosing a binding material that contrasts with the quilt’s colours.
- Print vs. Strong: Experiment with printed or stable binding materials to attain completely different results.
Width:
The width of the binding material relies on the specified completed width of the binding. Usually, binding strips are reduce to a width of two.5 inches or 3 inches.
Bias vs. Grain:
Binding strips could be reduce both on the bias or on the straight grain. Bias strips stretch extra simply, making them appropriate for curves and factors. Nevertheless, they are often more difficult to work with.
Coordinated vs. Contrasting Bobbin Thread:
For a delicate impact, use a bobbin thread that matches the binding material. Alternatively, select a contrasting bobbin thread to create an ornamental topstitch alongside the binding.
Binding Strategies:
Upon getting chosen the binding material, you may bind your quilt utilizing varied methods. Listed below are the most typical strategies:
- Conventional Binding: This methodology entails stitching the binding strip across the fringe of the quilt after which folding it over to the again and hand-stitching it in place.
- Machine Binding: This methodology makes use of a stitching machine to stitch the binding strip in place. It’s a quicker and simpler method than conventional binding.
- Bias Binding: This methodology makes use of bias-cut strips to create a slim and ornamental binding.
Making ready the Quilt for Binding
1. Trim the Quilting Cloth
As soon as the quilt high is full, you will want to trim the surplus material across the edges to organize it for binding. Use a rotary cutter and a quilting ruler to make sure straight strains and exact measurements. Trim the material evenly on all sides, leaving a border of about 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) past the sting of the quilt batting.
2. Create a Double-Fold Binding Strip
The binding strip is the material that frames the perimeters of the quilt and prevents the uncooked edges from fraying. To create a double-fold binding strip, comply with these detailed steps:
-
Minimize Cloth Strips: Calculate the circumference of the quilt edge to find out the size of the binding strip wanted. Minimize material strips 2 1/2 inches (6.3 cm) large within the desired size from an appropriate material that enhances the quilt design.
-
Iron in Half: With proper sides dealing with, fold one lengthy edge of every material strip over by 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) and press. Unfold the strip.
-
Re-fold and Press: Fold the uncooked fringe of the strip over the pressed edge, aligning the uncooked edges. Press firmly to set the crease.
-
Mitered Corners: For every nook, trim the surplus material at a 45-degree angle to create a clear and exact miter.
-
Be part of Binding Strips: Sew the ends of the binding strips collectively utilizing a 1/4-inch (0.6 cm) seam allowance. Press the seam open.
3. Be part of the Binding to the Quilt
With the binding strip ready, connect it to the quilt edge. This is how:
-
Place the Binding: Place the binding strip across the fringe of the quilt, ensuring that the folded edge extends past the quilt by 1/4 inch (0.6 cm).
-
Safe with Pins: Pin the binding to the quilt, beginning on the heart of 1 facet. Insert pins perpendicular to the sting, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) aside.
-
Machine Sew: Use a blind hem sew or a topstitch to safe the binding to the quilt. Observe the producer’s directions to your stitching machine.
-
End the Corners: At every nook, fold the binding strip right into a triangle and miter the surplus material to make sure a clear end.
4. Ending Touches
To finish the binding, comply with these remaining steps:
-
Fold Binding Over: Fold the remaining 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) of the binding strip over the uncooked fringe of the quilt and press.
-
Hand Sew: Utilizing a small sew, hand sew the binding in place, catching solely the folded fringe of the binding and the quilt.
-
Press the Binding: As soon as the binding is stitched down, press it evenly to flatten any seams and guarantee an expert end.
Reducing the Binding Strips
Binding strips are the lengthy, slim strips of material which might be used to complete the perimeters of a quilt. They are often produced from the identical material because the quilt, or they are often produced from a coordinating material. The width of the binding strips will rely upon the dimensions of the quilt. For many quilts, a 2-inch large binding strip is ample.
To chop the binding strips, you will want to first measure the perimeter of the quilt. To do that, use a measuring tape to measure across the outdoors fringe of the quilt, together with the seam allowances. Upon getting the perimeter measurement, divide it by the width of the binding strip to find out what number of strips that you must reduce. For instance, if the perimeter of the quilt is 120 inches and the binding strips are 2 inches large, you will want to chop 60 strips.
As soon as you know the way many strips that you must reduce, you may reduce them out of the material. To do that, lay the material out on a flat floor and use a ruler and a rotary cutter to chop the strips. You’ll want to reduce the strips precisely, as any errors will probably be seen within the completed quilt.
Bias Binding
Bias binding is a sort of binding that’s reduce on the bias. Which means the strips are reduce at a 45-degree angle to the grain of the material. Bias binding is extra versatile than straight-grain binding, making it perfect for curves and different intricate shapes. To chop bias binding, you will want to first reduce a strip of material that’s twice the width of the completed binding. For instance, if you wish to make a 2-inch large binding, you will want to chop a strip of material that’s 4 inches large.
Upon getting reduce the strip of material, fold it in half lengthwise, unsuitable sides collectively. Press the fold to crease it. Then, open up the strip of material and fold every of the uncooked edges to the middle crease. Press these folds to crease them as nicely. You’ll now have a strip of material that’s folded into quarters.
To chop the bias binding, use a pointy knife or a rotary cutter to chop alongside the diagonal edges of the material. You’ll want to reduce fastidiously, as any errors will probably be seen within the completed quilt.
Double-Fold Binding
Double-fold binding is a sort of binding that’s folded twice. This creates a extra completed look than single-fold binding. To chop double-fold binding, you will want to first reduce a strip of material that’s 3 times the width of the completed binding. For instance, if you wish to make a 2-inch large binding, you will want to chop a strip of material that’s 6 inches large.
Upon getting reduce the strip of material, fold it in half lengthwise, unsuitable sides collectively. Press the fold to crease it. Then, open up the strip of material and fold every of the uncooked edges to the middle crease. Press these folds to crease them as nicely. You’ll now have a strip of material that’s folded into thirds.
To chop the double-fold binding, use a pointy knife or a rotary cutter to chop alongside the diagonal edges of the material. You’ll want to reduce fastidiously, as any errors will probably be seen within the completed quilt.
Figuring out the Size of Binding Strips
The size of the binding strips will rely upon the dimensions of the quilt. To find out the size of the binding strips, comply with these steps:
- Measure the perimeter of the quilt. To do that, use a measuring tape to measure across the outdoors fringe of the quilt, together with the seam allowances.
- Divide the perimeter measurement by 2. This provides you with the whole size of the binding strips.
- Minimize the binding strips to the specified size.
Here’s a desk that exhibits the approximate quantity of binding you will want for various quilt sizes:
Quilt Dimension Binding Size Child (36″ x 48″) 10 yards Throw (50″ x 60″) 12 yards Twin (68″ x 86″) 14 yards Full (80″ x 96″) 16 yards Queen (90″ x 108″) 18 yards King (108″ x 120″) 20 yards Attaching the Binding to the Quilt
The ultimate step in quilting is attaching the binding to the quilt. Binding not solely provides a completed look to the quilt, but it surely additionally helps to safe the layers collectively and stop the quilt from fraying.
There are just a few other ways to connect binding to a quilt. The most typical strategies are:
- Machine-stitching
- Hand-stitching
- Gluing
- Fold the binding in half lengthwise, unsuitable sides collectively, and press. You would possibly be capable of skip this step in case your binding strips are completely reduce and the material is steady. You’ll want to trim the selvages to get rid of any of any puckers.
- Pin the binding to the quilt, proper sides collectively, alongside one edge. Use a scant ¼ inch seam allowance. Utilizing a strolling foot and even feed canines will assist preserve the layers from shifting.
- Machine-stitch the binding to the quilt, utilizing a straight sew. Backstitch initially and finish of the stitching. You should utilize a zipper foot for this step, which can sew near the binding fold.
- Fold the binding over the uncooked fringe of the quilt and pin it in place. Use a blind hem sew to connect the binding to the quilt. Backstitch initially and finish of every stitching line.
- Trim any extra binding from the corners. To miter the binding on the corners, trim the binding to a 45-degree angle. Fold the binding over the nook and sew it in place. Repeat for the opposite three corners.
>Mitering the Binding on the Corners
Trim the binding to the size of every quilt facet. For instance, if in case you have a 60″ sq. quilt, you will want 4 60″ lengths of binding.
Trim the binding diagonally at a 45-degree angle on one finish.
- Fold the binding over the quilt edge and pin it in place, beginning on the heart of 1 facet. Easy out the binding as you pin it, ensuring that it’s taut and even. Use loads of pins, particularly on the corners.
- Use a pointy needle and thread that matches the colour of the binding.
- Take small, even stitches.
- Don’t pull the thread too tightly, or the binding will pucker.
- If you’re hand-stitching the binding, use a thimble to guard your finger.
- Be affected person and take your time. Attaching the binding is a tedious course of, however it’s value it ultimately.
-
Place the folded binding strip on the nook of the quilt, aligning the uncooked edges of the binding with the folded fringe of the quilt.
-
Fold the binding strip over the quilt, mitering the nook. To do that, fold the binding strip at a 45-degree angle, aligning the folded fringe of the quilt with the folded fringe of the binding.
-
Press the binding strip into place.
-
Fold the opposite facet of the binding strip over the quilt, mitering the nook in the identical manner.
-
Press the binding strip into place.
-
Trimming the Extra Binding
To trim the surplus binding, fold the binding strip over the sting of the quilt, aligning the uncooked edges of the binding with the sting of the quilt. Trim the surplus binding, leaving a 1/4-inch overhang.
Step Description 1 Fold the binding strip over the sting of the quilt, aligning the uncooked edges. 2 Trim the surplus binding, leaving a 1/4-inch overhang. -
Unfold the binding strip and fold it over the quilt, mitering the nook as earlier than.
-
Press the binding strip into place.
-
Repeat steps 6-8 for the opposite three corners of the quilt.
- Twill tape, 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch width
- Cloth for binding strips: 1¼-inch large strips × twice the size of quilt edges
- Cloth strips: 1½-inch large strips × twice the size of quilt edges
- Stitching machine
- Iron and ironing board
- Scissors
- Rotary cutter (optionally available)
- Quilting ruler (optionally available)
-
Minimize the twill tape and material strips. Minimize the twill tape to a size that’s no less than twice the perimeter of your quilt, plus 12 inches. Minimize the material strips to the size and width specified within the supplies checklist.
-
Fold and press the material strips. Fold a 1¼-inch strip in half lengthwise and press. Repeat with the 1½-inch strip.
-
Apply the folded material strips to the quill tape. Align the uncooked fringe of a 1¼-inch strip with the uncooked fringe of the twill tape. Fold the strip over the twill tape and press. Repeat with the remaining 1¼-inch strip on the opposite facet of the twill tape.
-
Mitre the corners. Measure and mark a 45-degree angle on the folded finish of every strip. Minimize alongside the marked strains to create a mitred nook.
-
Overlap and sew the corners. Fold the mitred corners over and sew them collectively.
-
Connect the binding to the quilt. Pin and stitch the binding to the sting of the quilt, near the folded fringe of the material strips.
-
Trim the surplus binding. Trim any extra binding from the corners.
-
Fold and press the binding to the again of the quilt. Fold the binding over the sting of the quilt and press.
-
Hand sew the binding to the again of the quilt. Sew the binding to the again of the quilt utilizing a blind sew.
-
Ending. As soon as the binding is sewn down, press it once more for a crisp end.
- Binding material
- Quilt
- Iron and ironing board
- Stitching machine
- Thread
- Minimize strips of binding material which might be 2 1/2 inches large. The size of the strips will range relying on the dimensions of your quilt.
- Fold one lengthy uncooked fringe of the binding strip over 1/4 inch and press.
- Fold the folded edge over once more, this time 1 inch, and press.
- Repeat Steps 2 and three with the opposite lengthy uncooked fringe of the binding strip.
- Align the folded fringe of the binding strip with the uncooked fringe of the quilt high. Pin in place.
- Sew the binding strip to the quilt high utilizing a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
- Fold the binding strip over the uncooked fringe of the quilt again and press.
- Sew the binding strip to the quilt again utilizing a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
- Fold the binding strip over the mitered nook and press.
- Sew the binding strip to the quilt again utilizing a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
- Use a material glue stick to carry the binding in place earlier than stitching.
- If you’re utilizing a patterned material for the binding, make certain to place the sample in order that it seems good on the quilt.
- You should utilize a wide range of stitches to stitch the binding to the quilt. A blind sew is an effective selection for a extra invisible end.
- If the binding is simply too unfastened, it might not keep in place. Attempt utilizing a smaller seam allowance or a unique sew.
- If the binding is simply too tight, it might pucker. Attempt utilizing a bigger seam allowance or a unique sew.
- If the corners of the binding will not be mitered correctly, they might not lay flat. Attempt folding the binding strip over the mitered nook extra fastidiously and urgent it nicely.
- Enhance the width of the binding by 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.
- Tighten the stress in your stitching machine.
- Use a narrower sew width.
- Lower the width of the binding by 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.
- Loosen the stress in your stitching machine.
- Use a wider sew width.
- Press the binding fastidiously earlier than stitching it down.
- Use a material glue stick to carry the binding in place when you are stitching.
- Machine-stitch the binding down as a substitute of hand-stitching it.
- Use a mitre gauge that will help you reduce the binding strips.
- Mark the 45-degree angles on the binding strips with a pencil or material marker.
- Sew the binding strips collectively fastidiously, ensuring to match the mitred edges.
- Use a robust thread to stitch the binding down.
- Quilt the binding all the way down to the quilt high utilizing a quilting machine or by hand.
- Use a glue stick to carry the binding in place when you are stitching.
- Use a rotary cutter to chop the binding strips to the identical width.
- Use a mitre gauge that will help you reduce the binding strips to the identical size.
- Sew the binding strips collectively fastidiously, ensuring to match the mitred edges.
- Measure the size of the quilt high earlier than you narrow the binding strips.
- Add 1-2 inches to the size of the binding strips to permit for overlap on the corners.
- Trim the surplus binding off after you may have sewn it down.
- Fold the binding strips over the perimeters of the quilt high and press them in place.
- Use a blind sew to stitch the binding all the way down to the quilt high.
- Use a glue stick to carry the binding in place when you are stitching.
- Use a dimension 12 or 14 needle.
- Use a sew size of two.0-2.5 mm.
- Use a strolling foot to assist feed the material via the machine evenly.
- Use a robust thread.
- Use a small needle.
- Take small, even stitches.
- Measure the quilt high earlier than you narrow the binding strips.
- Use a ruler that will help you heart the binding.
- Pin the binding in place earlier than you sew it down.
- Use a pinking shears to chop the perimeters of the binding strips.
- Use a mitre gauge that will help you reduce the binding strips to the identical size.
- Sew the binding strips collectively fastidiously, ensuring to match the mitred edges.
- Fold the binding over the perimeters of the quilt high and press them in place.
- Sew the binding all the way down to the again of the quilt utilizing a quilting machine or by hand.
- Use a glue stick to carry the binding in place when you are stitching.
- Quilt the binding all the way down to the quilt high utilizing a quilting machine or by hand.
- Sew the binding all the way down to the again of the quilt utilizing a quilting machine or by hand.
- Use a glue stick to carry the binding in place when you are stitching.
- Use a medium-weight material for the binding.
- Sew the binding all the way down to the quilt high and to the again of the quilt utilizing a quilting machine or by hand.
- Use a glue stick to carry the binding in place when you are stitching.
- Use an ornamental material for the binding.
- Use a mitre gauge that will help you reduce the binding strips to the identical size.
- Sew the binding strips collectively fastidiously, ensuring to match the mitred edges.
- Use a binding that’s 2-3 inches large.
- Sew the binding all the way down to the quilt high and to the again of the quilt utilizing a quilting machine or by hand.
- Use a glue stick to carry the binding in place when you are stitching.
- Cotton: Pure, cheap, and simple to work with. Not as sturdy as artificial fibers, however appropriate for many quilts.
- Polyester: Artificial, sturdy, and colorfast. Resists fading and stretching, making it perfect for quilts that may obtain heavy use.
- Nylon: Artificial, very sturdy and sturdy. Usually used for upholstery and outside materials.
- Common: Common-purpose needles appropriate for many materials.
- Sharp: For delicate materials like silk and wonderful cotton.
- Betweens (11/75 and 12/80): For medium-weight materials like quilting cotton.
- Denims: For heavy-duty materials like denim and canvas.
- Hand Quilting: Particularly designed for hand quilting, with a smaller eye and a protracted, slender shaft.
- Minimize your binding strips twice so long as the sting you might be binding.
- Fold one finish of the binding strip over the uncooked fringe of the quilt by 1/2 inch.
- Press the fold with an iron.
- Fold the binding strip over the uncooked edge once more, this time by 3/4 inch.
- Press the fold with an iron.
- Machine sew the binding to the quilt, near the folded edge.
- On the nook of the quilt, cease stitching about 1 inch earlier than the nook.
- Fold the binding strip diagonally throughout the nook, in order that the uncooked edges of the quilt and binding are aligned.
- Press the fold with an iron.
- Fold the binding strip over the uncooked edge once more, this time by 3/4 inch.
- Press the fold with an iron.
- Machine sew the binding to the quilt, about 1/4 inch from the folded edge.
- Proceed stitching across the quilt, utilizing the magic nook method at every nook.
- Tube methodology: This methodology entails stitching the binding round a tube of material earlier than attaching it to the quilt. This methodology is sweet for quilts with very irregular edges.
- Bias-tape methodology: This methodology entails utilizing bias tape to bind the quilt. Bias tape is a strip of material that has been reduce on the bias, which signifies that it stretches in each instructions. This methodology is sweet for quilts with light curves.
- Hong Kong end: This methodology entails binding the quilt with a strip of material that’s folded over and stitched down. This methodology is sweet for quilts with sharp corners.
- Bias-tape methodology: This methodology is an effective choice for quilts with light curves. Bias tape is a strip of material that has been reduce on the bias, which signifies that it stretches in each instructions. This makes it straightforward to adapt to the curves of the quilt.
- Hong Kong end: This methodology is an effective choice for quilts with sharp curves. This methodology entails binding the quilt with a strip of material that’s folded over and stitched down. This methodology creates a really clear and professional-looking end.
- At every nook, fold the binding over 45 levels in direction of the within of the nook.
- Fold the surplus binding over once more, overlapping the primary fold by just a few stitches.
- Sew the miter in place utilizing a straight sew, matching the stitching line to the earlier seam.
- At every nook, reduce the binding at a 45-degree angle, leaving a small overlap of about ½ inch.
- Fold the 2 reduce edges collectively and sew them in place utilizing a straight sew.
- Trim any extra material near the stitching.
- Binding strip
- Piping wire
- Stitching needle
- Thimble
- Iron
- Create a Fold within the Binding Strip: Fold the binding strip in half lengthwise, proper sides collectively. Press the fold to crease it.
- Insert the Piping Twine: Place the piping wire contained in the crease of the binding strip, aligning the perimeters.
- Pin the Edges: Use stitching pins to pin the perimeters of the binding strip across the piping wire, spacing the pins about 2-3 inches aside.
- Topstitch the Binding: Beginning at one finish of the binding strip, topstitch the perimeters of the binding across the piping wire, utilizing a sew size of two.5-3 mm.
- Trim the Extra Piping Twine: As soon as the binding is topstitched, trim any extra piping wire that extends past the perimeters of the binding strip.
- Press the Binding: Press the certain fringe of the quilt to set the stitches and create a crisp fold.
- Use a Thimble: Utilizing a thimble when stitching across the piping wire can defend your finger from getting poked by the needle.
- Check the Sew Size: Earlier than you begin stitching the binding, take a look at the sew size on a scrap piece of material to make sure it is the specified dimension.
- Area the Pins Evenly: Spacing the pins evenly ensures that the binding is connected securely and prevents puckering.
- Sew Slowly: Stitching across the piping wire could be difficult, so take your time and sew slowly to make sure accuracy.
- Use a Sharp Needle: Utilizing a pointy needle will assist you penetrate the a number of layers of material extra simply.
- Trim the Piping Twine Carefully: Trimming the surplus piping wire intently will give your quilt a extra polished look.
- Quilt
- Binding material
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Scissors
- Needle and thread
- Iron and ironing board
- Minimize strips of binding material which might be 2 1/2 inches large and the size of the quilt’s edges. You’ll need 4 strips for a quilt with 4 sides.
- Be part of the strips collectively by stitching them with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Press the seams open.
- Fold the binding strip in half lengthwise, unsuitable sides collectively. Press the fold.
- Beginning at one nook of the quilt, align the uncooked fringe of the binding strip with the uncooked fringe of the quilt. Fold the binding strip over the quilt edge and sew it down with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
- Proceed stitching the binding strip across the complete quilt, mitering the corners as you go. To miter a nook, fold the binding strip at a 45-degree angle on the nook of the quilt. Trim the surplus material and unfold the binding strip. Fold the binding strip over the quilt edge and sew it down.
- Upon getting stitched the binding strip across the complete quilt, flip the quilt over to the again. Fold the uncooked fringe of the binding strip underneath and sew it down with a blind sew.
Hand-stitching is the standard methodology of attaching binding to a quilt. It offers the quilt a extra delicate look and can also be extra forgiving than machine-stitching. Nevertheless, hand-stitching can also be extra time-consuming than machine-stitching.
Machine-stitching the Binding
Suggestions for Attaching the Binding
Mitering the Binding Corners
Measuring the Binding Strip
For every nook, you will want a chunk of binding that’s 4 occasions the specified completed width of the binding, plus 1 inch for trimming. For instance, if you’d like a 1-inch completed binding, reduce a chunk of binding 5 inches lengthy.
Folding the Binding Strip
Fold the binding strip in half lengthwise, unsuitable sides collectively. Press the fold with an iron.
Mitering the Corners
Stitching the Binding
As soon as all the corners are mitered, you may sew the binding in place. To do that, machine sew across the perimeter of the quilt, 1/4-inch from the sting.
Ornamental Binding Strategies
Binding is a vital step in finishing a quilt, and it may be finished in a wide range of methods. Ornamental binding methods can add a singular and private contact to your quilt. Listed below are a number of the hottest ornamental binding methods:
1. Bias Binding
Bias binding is a strip of material that has been reduce on the bias, which suggests it’s reduce at a 45-degree angle to the grain of the material. This offers the binding a mushy, flowing look. Bias binding can be utilized to bind quilts, pillows, and different house decor gadgets.
2. Double-Fold Binding
Double-fold binding is a sort of binding that’s folded in half lengthwise earlier than being utilized to the quilt. This creates a thicker, extra sturdy binding that can also be extra ornamental.
3. Hong Kong Binding
Hong Kong binding is a sort of binding that’s utilized to the quilt in two items. The primary piece is a strip of material that’s folded in half lengthwise and sewn to the appropriate facet of the quilt. The second piece is a strip of material that’s folded in half lengthwise and sewn to the left facet of the quilt. The 2 items are then sewn collectively to create a completed binding.
4. Steady Binding
Steady binding is a sort of binding that’s sewn to the quilt in a single steady piece. This creates a easy, even end. Steady binding can be utilized to bind quilts, pillows, and different house decor gadgets.
5. Mitered Binding
Mitered binding is a sort of binding that’s reduce at a 45-degree angle and sewn collectively on the corners to create a mitered impact. This creates a really sharp, professional-looking end.
6. French Binding
French binding is a sort of binding that’s utilized to the quilt in two steps. Step one is to stitch a strip of material to the appropriate facet of the quilt. The second step is to fold the strip of material over to the unsuitable facet of the quilt and sew it down. This creates a really elegant, completed look.
7. Strolling Foot Binding
Strolling foot binding is a sort of binding that’s sewn utilizing a strolling foot. A strolling foot is a particular presser foot that helps to feed the material evenly via the machine, which ends up in a really even, constant sew. Strolling foot binding is an effective selection for quilts which might be produced from thick or slippery materials.
8. Machine Binding
Machine binding is a sort of binding that’s sewn utilizing a stitching machine. Machine binding is a fast and simple option to bind a quilt, and it may be finished with a wide range of materials and thread colours. Nevertheless, machine binding can generally be bulkier than hand binding.
9. Hand Binding
Hand binding is a sort of binding that’s sewn by hand. Hand binding is a really time-consuming course of, however it may well produce very lovely outcomes. Hand binding is an effective selection for quilts which might be produced from delicate materials or for quilts which have quite a lot of curves or angles.
10. Ornamental Binding Stitches
Along with the essential binding methods listed above, there are additionally numerous ornamental binding stitches that can be utilized so as to add a singular contact to your quilt. Listed below are just a few of the most well-liked ornamental binding stitches:
| Sew | Description |
|---|---|
| Blind sew | A blind sew is a sort of sew that’s sewn on the unsuitable facet of the material. This creates a really delicate, invisible end. |
| Catch sew | A catch sew is a sort of sew that’s used to safe the binding to the quilt. Catch stitches are sometimes sewn on the appropriate facet of the material. |
| Slip sew | A slip sew is a sort of sew that’s used to hitch two items of material collectively. Slip stitches are sometimes sewn on the unsuitable facet of the material. |
| Topstitch | A topstitch is a sort of sew that’s sewn on the appropriate facet of the material. Topstitches can be utilized so as to add an ornamental component to the binding. |
Including a Twill Tape Binding
A twill tape binding gives a clear and tailor-made end to your quilt. Observe these steps so as to add a twill tape binding:
Supplies:
Steps:
Utilizing a French Fold Binding
A French fold binding offers a quilt a clear, tailor-made end. It’s a sensible choice for quilts that will probably be used often, as it’s sturdy and might stand up to washing and drying.
Supplies
Directions
Suggestions
Troubleshooting
French Fold Binding Desk
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 1 | Minimize strips of binding material which might be 2 1/2 inches large. The size of the strips will range relying on the dimensions of your quilt. |
| 2 | Fold one lengthy uncooked fringe of the binding strip over 1/4 inch and press. |
| 3 | Fold the folded edge over once more, this time 1 inch, and press. |
| 4 | Repeat Steps 2 and three with the opposite lengthy uncooked fringe of the binding strip. |
| 5 | Align the folded fringe of the binding strip with the uncooked fringe of the quilt high. Pin in place. |
| 6 | Sew the binding strip to the quilt high utilizing a 1/4-inch seam allowance. |
| 7 | Fold the binding strip over the uncooked fringe of the quilt again and press. |
| 8 | Sew the binding strip to the quilt again utilizing a 1/4-inch seam allowance. |
| 9 | Fold the binding strip over the mitered nook and press. |
| 10 | Sew the binding strip to the quilt again utilizing a 1/4-inch seam allowance. |
Troubleshooting Frequent Binding Points
1. Binding Is Too Unfastened
The binding could also be too unfastened if it doesn’t lie flat towards the quilt high or if it simply pulls away from the perimeters. To repair this, you may:
2. Binding Is Too Tight
The binding could also be too tight if it pulls the quilt high off form or whether it is troublesome to fold over the perimeters. To repair this, you may:
3. Binding Is Not Flat
The binding is probably not flat whether it is wrinkled or if it bubbles up in locations. To repair this, you may:
4. Binding Is Mitred Incorrectly
The binding could also be mitred incorrectly if the corners don’t meet evenly or if the mitred edges will not be at a 45-degree angle. To repair this, you may:
5. Binding Is Not Securely Connected
The binding is probably not securely connected if it pulls away from the quilt high or if it unravels. To repair this, you may:
6. Binding Is Not Uniform
The binding is probably not uniform if it varies in width or if the mitred corners will not be all the identical dimension. To repair this, you may:
7. Binding Is Too Lengthy or Too Brief
The binding could also be too lengthy if it overlaps on the corners or if it doesn’t attain the perimeters of the quilt high. The binding could also be too brief if it doesn’t overlap on the corners or if it doesn’t attain the perimeters of the quilt high. To repair this, you may:
8. Binding Is Not Correctly Turned Below
The binding is probably not correctly turned underneath whether it is seen on the entrance of the quilt or if it doesn’t lie flat towards the quilt high. To repair this, you may:
9. Binding Is Not Machine Stitched Accurately
The binding is probably not machine stitched accurately whether it is puckered or if the stitches are uneven. To repair this, you may:
10. Binding Is Not Hand Stitched Accurately
The binding is probably not hand stitched accurately if the stitches are uneven or if the binding will not be securely connected to the quilt high. To repair this, you may:
11. Binding Is Not Utilized Evenly
The binding is probably not utilized evenly whether it is wider on one facet of the quilt than the opposite or if it’s not centered. To repair this, you may:
12. Binding Is Not Cleanly Completed
The binding is probably not cleanly completed if the perimeters are fraying or if the corners will not be mitred accurately. To repair this, you may:
13. Binding Is Not Connected to the Again of the Quilt
The binding is probably not connected to the again of the quilt if it’s not sewn down or if it’s only connected on the corners. To repair this, you may:
14. Binding Is Not Bolstered
The binding is probably not strengthened if it’s not quilted down or if it’s only connected on the corners. To repair this, you may:
15. Binding Is Not Sturdy
The binding is probably not sturdy whether it is produced from a light-weight material or if it’s not sewn down securely. To repair this, you may:
16. Binding Is Not Ornamental
The binding is probably not ornamental whether it is produced from a plain material or if it’s not mitred accurately. To repair this, you may:
17. Binding Is Not Practical
The binding is probably not useful if it’s not large sufficient to guard the perimeters of the quilt or if it’s not sewn down securely. To repair this, you may:
18. Binding Is Not Interesting
The binding is probably not interesting if it doesn’t match the type of the quilt
Deciding on the Proper Thread and Needle for Binding
Selecting the suitable thread and needle for quilt binding is essential for attaining a sturdy and aesthetically pleasing end. Listed below are some elements to think about when making your choice:
Thread Thickness
The thickness of the thread ought to complement the burden and texture of your quilt. For light-weight quilts, use a wonderful thread, similar to 50-weight cotton or quilting thread. For medium-weight quilts, go for a barely thicker thread, similar to 40-weight cotton or polyester thread. Heavy quilts require a strong thread, similar to 30-weight cotton or upholstery thread.
A thicker thread can stand up to extra put on and tear and can present a safer binding. Nevertheless, it might be harder to work with and may end up in bulkiness. Conversely, a thinner thread is simpler to deal with and creates a extra delicate end, but it surely is probably not appropriate for heavy quilts.
Thread Materials
The fabric of the thread can have an effect on its energy, sturdiness, and look. Listed below are the most typical sorts of thread used for quilt binding:
Needle Dimension
The dimensions of the needle ought to match the thickness of the thread you might be utilizing. Select a needle that’s giant sufficient to accommodate the thread with out inflicting it to interrupt, however sufficiently small to cross via the material with out damaging it.
A normal rule of thumb is to make use of a needle that’s one dimension bigger than the thread weight. For instance, in case you are utilizing 50-weight thread, use a dimension 10 needle. Seek advice from the desk beneath for a extra detailed information:
| Thread Weight | Needle Dimension |
|---|---|
| 50-weight | 10 |
| 40-weight | 9 |
| 30-weight | 8 |
Needle Sort
Quilt binding needles can be found in varied sorts, every designed for particular materials and stitching methods. Listed below are the most typical sorts:
Particular Strategies for Binding Curved or Irregular Quilts
Binding an Irregular Quilt – The Magic Nook Method
Irregular quilts have edges that aren’t straight, so binding them is usually a problem. The magic nook method is a technique for binding irregular quilts that creates a neat and professional-looking end. Right here is find out how to do it:
Different Binding Strategies for Irregular Quilts
Along with the magic nook method, there are just a few different strategies for binding irregular quilts. These strategies embody:
Binding a Quilt with Curved Edges
Curved quilts are one other problem to bind, however there are just a few methods that may assist you get a neat and professional-looking end. These methods embody:
Desk: Comparability of Binding Strategies for Irregular and Curved Quilts
| Magic Nook Method | Tube Technique | Bias-Tape Technique | Hong Kong End | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Appropriate for | Irregular quilts with sharp corners | Irregular quilts with very irregular edges | Irregular quilts with light curves | Irregular quilts with sharp corners |
| Ease of use | Average | Troublesome | Simple | Troublesome |
| End | Neat {and professional} | Very neat {and professional} | Clear {and professional} | Very clear {and professional} |
Step 26: Insert Triangle into Slash
This step requires precision and cautious dealing with of the material.
Slip the unfolded triangle contained in the opening left by the slash. Make sure that the folded finish of the triangle extends just a few millimeters past the fold line of the binding, in direction of the outer fringe of the quilt.
Utilizing a pointy needle and thread that matches the binding, sew the triangle securely in place. Start stitching on the level the place the triangle enters the opening and work in direction of the purpose the place it exits. Make small, evenly spaced stitches to make sure a robust and invisible seam.
As soon as the triangle is stitched in place, trim any extra material from the seam allowance. Be cautious to not reduce into the binding or the quilt itself.
Repeat this course of for all remaining corners of the quilt. Take your time and guarantee precision in every step to attain a flawless mitered nook end.
| Step | Description |
|---|---|
| 26.1 | Slip the unfolded triangle contained in the opening left by the slash. |
| 26.2 | Sew the triangle securely in place, ranging from the doorway level and dealing in direction of the exit level. |
| 26.3 | Trim extra material from the seam allowance. |
| 26.4 | Repeat for all remaining corners. |
Utilizing a Coloration Gradient for the Binding
Making ready the Cloth Strips
To create a colour gradient to your quilt binding, start by choosing a variety of materials that circulation easily from one colour to a different. Minimize every material into lengthy strips measuring 2½ inches large. The size of every strip will range relying on the dimensions of your quilt.
Stitching the Strips Collectively
Align the uncooked edges of two material strips, proper sides collectively. Sew alongside the sting utilizing a ¼-inch seam allowance. Proceed stitching strips collectively on this method, matching the perimeters and sustaining a constant seam allowance.
Tip: Use a presser foot with a information to make sure exact stitching.
Trimming the Cloth
As soon as the strips are sewn collectively, trim the surplus material on one lengthy edge to create a straight, clear line. This edge will change into the interior fringe of the binding.
Folding the Binding
Fold the binding strip in half, lengthwise, with the appropriate facet dealing with inward. Press the fold with an iron.
Attaching the Binding to the Quilt
Align the interior fringe of the binding with the uncooked fringe of the quilt high. Pin the binding in place across the complete quilt, matching the seams of the binding with the corners of the quilt.
Tip: Use loads of pins to make sure the binding stays in place whereas stitching.
Machine Stitching the Binding
Utilizing a blind sew foot, sew the binding to the quilt high via all layers. Begin and cease stitching just a few stitches away from the corners to keep away from bulk.
Tip: For additional sturdiness, topstitch the binding down alongside the periphery. This step is optionally available.
Mitering the Corners
Technique 1: Fold-and-Fold
Technique 2: Minimize-and-Sew
Different Strategies for Binding with a Coloration Gradient
| Technique | Description |
|---|---|
| Bias Binding | Creates a mushy, flowing gradient by reducing bias strips from the gradient material. |
| Machine Quilt Binding | Makes use of a particular method to include the binding into the quilting course of, leading to a seamless transition from quilt to binding. |
| Serged Binding | Provides a contemporary and clear end by serging the perimeters of the material strips earlier than stitching them collectively. |
Binding a Quilt with Piping
38. Attaching the Piping to the Binding
Supplies:
Directions:
Further Suggestions for Binding a Quilt with Piping
Binding a Wall Hanging
While you’re ending a quilt, the binding is the ultimate contact that provides it a sophisticated look. It additionally helps to guard the perimeters of the quilt from fraying. For a wall hanging, you will wish to use a binding that’s each ornamental and sturdy. Listed below are the steps on find out how to do binding on a quilt:
1. Minimize the Binding Strips
Step one is to chop the binding strips. You may want to chop strips which might be 2 1/2 inches large and the size of the quilt’s perimeter plus 12 inches. For instance, in case your quilt is 40 inches sq., you will want to chop 4 strips which might be 2 1/2 inches large and 52 inches lengthy.
2. Sew the Binding Strips Collectively
As soon as you’ve got reduce the binding strips, you will want to stitch them collectively to create one lengthy strip. To do that, place two strips proper sides collectively and stitch them collectively alongside one lengthy edge utilizing a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.
Proceed stitching the binding strips collectively till you may have one lengthy strip that’s the size of the quilt’s perimeter plus 12 inches.
3. Connect the Binding to the Quilt
Now it is time to connect the binding to the quilt. To do that, place the binding strip alongside the sting of the quilt, proper sides collectively. Pin the binding in place and stitch it to the quilt utilizing a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Press the seam open.
Proceed attaching the binding to the quilt, mitering the corners. To miter a nook, fold the binding strip at a 45-degree angle on the nook of the quilt. Then, fold the opposite finish of the binding strip over the primary finish and stitch them collectively. Press the seam open.
4. End the Binding
As soon as you’ve got connected the binding to the quilt, you will want to complete the binding. To do that, fold the binding over to the again of the quilt and hand-sew it in place. You should utilize a slip sew or a blind sew to do that.
To slide sew, insert the needle into the fold of the binding, catching just a few threads of the quilt backing. Then, insert the needle again into the fold of the binding, about 1/4 inch away from the primary sew. Repeat this course of till you’ve got sewn all the binding in place.
To blind sew, insert the needle into the fold of the binding, catching just a few threads of the quilt backing. Then, insert the needle again into the fold of the binding, about 1/8 inch away from the primary sew. Repeat this course of till you’ve got sewn all the binding in place.
5. Ending Touches
As soon as you’ve got completed stitching the binding in place, you may add some ending touches, similar to an ornamental topstitch or a tassel fringe. You may as well quilt the binding to the quilt for additional sturdiness.
| Binding Method | Description |
|---|---|
| Slip sew | A easy and invisible sew that’s excellent for ending bindings. |
| Blind sew | A extra complicated however much more invisible sew than the slip sew. |
| Topstitch | An ornamental sew that can be utilized so as to add a final touch to the binding. |
| Tassel fringe | A enjoyable and kooky option to end the binding. |
| Quilting | A good way so as to add additional sturdiness to the binding. |
How To Do Binding On Quilt
Binding is the ultimate step in ending a quilt, and it is an essential one. Not solely does binding defend the perimeters of the quilt from fraying, but it surely additionally offers the quilt a completed and polished look. There are numerous other ways to bind a quilt, however this tutorial will present you find out how to do a easy and conventional hand-binding methodology.
Supplies You may Want:
Directions:
Folks Additionally Ask About How To Do Binding On Quilt
What’s the finest material for quilt binding?
The most effective material for quilt binding is a tightly woven cotton. This sort of material will probably be sturdy and won’t fray simply.
How do I miter the corners when binding a quilt?
To miter a nook when binding a quilt, fold the binding strip at a 45-degree angle on the nook of the quilt. Trim the surplus material and unfold the binding strip. Fold the binding strip over the quilt edge and sew it down.
How do I end the again of a quilt binding?
To complete the again of a quilt binding, fold the uncooked fringe of the binding strip underneath and sew it down with a blind sew.
